A festive eve
If The Regent is an old friend then surely The Churchill Arms is at the very least an older brother.
This traditional old boozer sat atop Kensington Church Street should be like any other London pub but for two crucial ingredients- the passion and energy of one Gerry O’Brien and the fantastic Thai food served out back. Ingredients are an understatement as in reality they are the heart and the vast majority of the cardiovascular system to this establishment.
Bobby and I have chosen one of the first nights we can reasonably describe as wintry to don warm coats, a festive spirit (its early but gotta love Xmas) and head for this shrine to the MP for Epping and Woodford. There are three entrances to this pub, all on the same side which can be used to your advantage. The one furthest left is probably your best bet when it’s really busy. I wouldn’t normally obsess too much over doors but The Churchill’s biggest downfall, in my hugely partisan opinion, is getting to the bar when the place livens up . Firstly, because there are regulars who have been clinging to the bar stools since Churchill declared war (fair play its a great pub) and also the narrow bar front and clusters of small tables that can make even getting around the bar a testing experience.
Anyway, I feel almost dirty mentioning it but we at Publocation are anything if not honest and it’s clearly annoyed me enough to mention it. I must add however that the service once you get your turn is very good indeed, and we are here on the busiest night of the year. Lets get to the good stuff. Decor is traditional but its vintage is tricky to call as its covered in everything from bed pans to baskets to beer paraphernalia, all with a historical bent. You’ll find pictures of all the UK PM’s and presidents lined up though it’s not entirely up to date. I guess recent PMs don’t make the cut, and glad to see Obama can fool the Nobel team but not our Gerry. The decor in the restaurant is of starker design but still with plenty of tat and clutter. Botanical twisters and triffids threaten your food from above.
Here we are then on the evening of Winnie’s 135th birthday and we are transported back to the spirit of the Blitz when men were men and woman longed for silk hosiery. As the London Pride flows we contemplate how fortuitous we are today to have what we have and how most of the things we take for granted were so precious back then. I digress whimsically, but at The Churchill it’s the done thing. Our thoughts move to food and our 8pm booking in the Thai restaurant. Booking by the way is a clever idea if you want to beat the queues and sit away from the crowded bar area, but its not essential. If you don’t mind taking your time or can grab a table in the bar, just put you head through, get your name on the list and food generally turns up a lot quicker than anticipated.
If you want satisfaction guaranteed go for the Pad Thai (No. 1), Chicken with cashew(15) or the green/red curry (12 & 20 I think). If you want some heat then go for a 5, 9 or 11 but unless you like thick noodled, gravy pasted chicken with thick cut veg, then avoid 2 & 3. Most of the dishes are best with chicken but you can also get prawns or mixed. Chilli oil can be provided on request but avoid asking for variations on the dishes. They come as they are with much pride and tradition so entrust yourself to those that know best.
As Vera Lynn wafts siren like through the bar, I make another run for London Pride. Its a tradition on the big C’s birthday but I can also recommend the ice-cold Grolsch. Other drinks on offer are standard Fullers fare and don’t expect too much to excite the fermented fruit lovers.The service is quick despite the throng but be prepared to be patient and say excuse me a lot. You could barge on through but why ruin a perfectly good evening. Standards in general remain high, particularly with Gerry at the helm. He is one of those rarely found old school publicans who believes taking a minute for each and every punter as he scurries around the place wiping and preening, is far more alluring than a floral feature wall fronted by eye bruisingly attractive waifs. A rare thing indeed, particularly in Notting Hill, and in the fact it can work outside a working mans club.
Special mention should be afforded to Gerry’s work on the exterior of the pub and interior of the Thai restaurant. Many hours spent watering and maintaining hundreds of plants and flowers to maximise a stunning inflorescence, has made this pub award-winning within the pub industry, and as a living tapestry London wide. On this particular eve its a Xmas theme so flowers are replaced with fir trees and decorations plastered with golden lights cascading on to red and green hues. These types of themes are always carried on into the pub be it a festival or a sporting match and it makes for a unique atmosphere.
I’ve rated this pub a 4.5 despite my 12 year allegiance because I know it warts and all and I understand what transports it to another level. And as with a life time lover the rose-tinted shades have been upgraded to Boots reading spectacles- not perfect but they do a job. Many who enter The Churchill Arms will simply say English pub-a proven recipe. Surely to the hundred of tourists who wind up there, this is exactly what they expected. On a summer’s day, with no special event or decoration, no Gerry around, and no regulars spinning yarns at the bar, you’ll still get a well served cold pint and a beautiful Thai dish, perhaps even wiling away some time away on the historic and barmy regalia.
But time it right and its a 5 star evening that the Notting Hill bar scene can only dream of.
Where:119 Church Street Kensington, London W8 7LN
When: Monday 30th November 2009, 7pm
Stars: 
UnPublicised:
Get a table between the bar and the restaurant (by the fire-place in winter- not too close), a pint of London Pride, and a Spicy Chicken Pad Thai (No. 1) all preferably on Churchill’s birthday. Food served by Annie or Jennie is a must.
Tel: 020 7727 4242
Website: www.fullers.co.uk
Menus: 1-20 Thai dishes plus Sunday roast
Interest: Windsor Castle and its garden 2 minutes away
